In 3D-WIP BRIA reimagines the design process itself by turning manual garment creation into a digitised process, thereby speeding up design and manufacturing and reducing physical waste. It does this by leveraging technologies that eliminate the need for physical samples and physical fittings, which are replaced with hyper-realistic digital designs on ‘fit model’ avatars. Through two use-cases, BRIA is establishing the ground-work to develop a software solution to effectively and accurately connect the design process to garment cutting and construction CAD/CAM machinery in garment manufacturing hubs in Bangladesh and beyond, to facilitate digital design to physical product in days or weeks, instead of months. As well as transforming a slow and manual sampling process into a digital one, it will eliminate textile waste and carbon emissions from the shipping of physical samples. Research into existing use of similar solutions has demonstrated a reduction in tens of thousands of samples per year for some of the world’s biggest brands. There is far greater scope for waste reduction and carbon emission savings with BRIA’s proposed digital design to manufacturing-ready solution for the fast fashion and high-volume segments of the fashion industry. The use cases explore knitted and bio-fabricated materials to demonstrate different applications of this digital design method. In the first, knitwear from the BRIA archive is transformed from a physical garment into digital form (from smartphone photographs) and worn by an avatar via the use of pattern-cutting and 3D digital design software. In the second use case, a small biomaterial swatch created by BRIA designer in residence, Cassie Quinn, is digitally transformed into a ‘zero waste’ garment, designed from start to finish and tested in terms of fit and drape digitally, before proceeding with a final physical version. Through these two examples, 3D-WIP explores the impact of traditional physical design and asks how digital tools can assist in reducing environmental impact, whilst also becoming a tool for enhanced creativity, communication and production via the animation of the garment and use of augmented reality.
The Brooke Roberts Innovation Agency (BRIA) is a London-based materials innovation agency aiming to transform the way fashion is designed and manufactured. Our motivation is to drastically reduce textile waste in the supply chain, reduce manufacturing lead times and improve profitability while simultaneously achieving sustainability (for people, processes and planet). We do this by conducting R&D in collaboration with fashion brands, designers, manufacturers and universities to find solutions to these challenges. As part of this project BRIA has collaborated with Aubrey Parnell, BA Fashion and Marketing student and 3D digital designer, Cassie Quinn, biomaterial designer and MA Biodesign student, and Yaqi Xie, Innovation Design Engineering Graduate and creator of Topographies of Pain at the Royal College of Art.https://www.brinnovationagency.com/